Friday, 22 August 2014

Andean Colombia: salsa, coffee, couchsurfing, pigeons, and exploding paper triangles. 15th - 28th May



“Wooah-oh, Colombia, wooah-oh!”. As I sat on the flight from Rio (good to see you again) to the Colombian capital of Bogota, even the promotional video on the front of my seat gave me an idea that I was onto a good thing. Images of colourful colonial towns, genial smiling old men, cascading coffee beans and some frankly ridiculously beautiful scenery on the screen only increased my excitement.

However, first things first it was time to get on with a new adventur– couchsurfing. My first ‘appointment’ was with a 40-year-old English teacher called Mao in Popayan in southern Colombia, keen to let me sleep on the floor of his bedroom in return for my English skills.

And what a lot of them there were looking to learn from my fountain of knowledge. On my first evening I was met by three from the airport before shots of aguardiente, a sugarcane-based spirit, and for the rest of my stay there my time was almost entirely taken up by students who wanted to show me the city (I was given three different tours over two days), take me out for arepas (cornflour pancakes) or take me salsa dancing.

Ah, salsa. In other south American countries salsa is all over the radio, a key component of a night out and an excuse for sad human beings such as the ubiquitous Marc Anthony to continue to use up precious oxygen. But in Colombia salsa is LIFE. You can see in the way that they conduct even mundane everyday business with the sway in their step that only a lifetime of salsa dancing (it’s like riding a bike – almost everyone is taught how to dance salsa by their parents at the age of 5) can give you.

Myself, on the other hand… I thought that I could hold my own in a salsateca after picking up a thing or two in Ecuador, but when you find yourself in a sticky and sweaty salsa club surrounded by those with at least 18 years experience of not just dancing but living salsa, you realise you have a lot to catch up.

The way that Colombians meet members of the opposite sex is by going out, dancing salsa with as many people as possible, and once sparks start shooting between one of your partners, to continue to dance with them until all the hip-shaking flirtations of the usual salsa steps are forgotten and they’re basically having sex with clothes on. Once this stage is realised then they presumably go home and have actual sex.

I think this way of hooking up is much better than the English way of getting shitfaced and taking home whoever your confused mind wanted at the time. For a start, Colombians stay mostly sober on nights out, since dancing is the most important thing and you can’t dance if you can’t stand up straight…

So this free and open attitude meant that very few girls would refuse to dance with me. It’s just a dance after all. The only thing is that their friendly welcoming manner soon melted away when they realised that they’d said yes to a clumsy gringo with two left feet, and by the 5th time in a row that a girl spent the whole song looking around bored in any direction but mine, I was starting to wish I’d spent less time as a child riding my bike and more time grinding my hips.

With a bit of practical tuition in my back pocket from one Popoyan girl who found my ungainliness charming rather than unbearable, I headed for one night in Cali, salsa capital of Colombia. Unfairly maligned, Cali’s centre offers charms such as a church square with 30 stands offering to type up documents on very old fashioned typewriters (how hipster) and another square which makes you feel like you’re in a scene from The Birds, such is the infestation of pigeons. This is presumably caused by local residents who pose for photos as pigeons eat from both of their hands and shit on their head. Must be a cultural thing.

So go to Cali for that, and stay in the Pelican Larry hostel while you’re at it. A group of us gringos and gringas headed out for some Sunday night salsa from there, finding ourselves in a huge club with a live salsa band where many people bring holdalls full of cowbells and other percussion and pass them around the public. I decided that was a safer option than testing out my moves on a Cali girl, but still managed to get chastised for bad cowbell playing by a pensioner, who then owned me in a dance-off. After that club finished, eight of us bundled into a 5-seater car to go to a late-night salsa club where the rule seemed to be not to dance with gringos. I went back to the hostel soon after.

The Colombian bus network led me next to the village of Salento in the coffee-growing zone of the country (or zona cafetera). Described as ‘charming’ by my guide, I took a rather different view of it due to the fact that this is where I joined up with the Colombian gringo trail and had to come to terms with seeing more of those people that I had gone out there to avoid. The climate is usually wonderful there, and offers the chance to go horse riding through fields of giant palm trees and visit the charming coffee farms that are dotted around the countryside.

My memories involve it raining so much that I could barely see the giant palm trees that were 5m from my face, and not being helped by some crappy Swiss people when I was bitten by a dog on the way to my coffee tour. But hey, maybe you’ll have a better time.

One cool thing that I did get to try in Salento was the national sport of Colombia – Tejo. This has to be played in large backrooms of bars and involves chucking heavy metal balls a good 10m to try and land on four tiny exploding triangles embedded in clay. It’s kind of less fun than it sounds, but in Colombia it’s taken very seriously, with a professional league and everything. That seems less strange when you consider that it’s possible to be a professional darts player in the UK.

Medellin was to be my shining light to rescue me from my salsa rejection and coffee-based trauma. What was the most dangerous city in the world a mere twenty years ago under the reign of drug lord Pablo Escobar has become an ultra-modern city since his death, and partly because of all the money he invested in infrastructure to appease a population that was ruled by fear.

Most people would agree that a man who used to have a bounty of $1000 on every Medellin policeman’s head was a bit of a dick. However, he still retains huge popularity amongst residents, willing to overlook all that killing and drugs because he helped to fund a cable car up from the city to the slums above. The view from said cable car is probably the daytime highlight of Medellin, along with the bizarre sculptures of fat humans and animals in the Plaza Botero.

As for the night-time highlight, there is absolutely no contest. I went to the El Tibiri bar with a mate of a Popayan couchsurfing student, and it was everything that you would hope for in a south american salsa bar – located in a dingy basement with practically no ventilation, free-flowing beer and aguardiente, incredible, joyous music, and the most incredible salsa dancers I think I’m ever likely to see without moving to Cuba.

One girl in particular springs to mind, and one song in particular where she was flung and spun between two partners in a flurry of legs had most seated (and many that had been stood dancing) stopping what they had been doing in amazement. The whole venue broke out in applause at the end. Once again, girls were willing to dance with me, and even if I was awful, the energy and joy in the room meant that it didn’t seem to matter. Even the disturbing sight of an interval act where an old bloke got puppets to perform sex acts on each other couldn’t sour the mood.

A day later, I took the bus to experience some good old Colombian hospitality with my mate from El Tiburi. I stayed in the youth camp where he worked and was given three hearty meals (usually rice or pancake with some type of dark meat, three times a day) for around £3 a night, just enough to get my strength up after an energy-sapping couple of weeks, ready to head up to the sultry Caribbean coast to let South America throw all that it could at me for one last exhilarating time.













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