Monday, 23 December 2013

The Loja Sunday market

The market, which takes over a large proportion of the town on a Sunday morning, is definitely where you see Loja at its best. I love to pop down there of a Sunday morning to see lovely old indigenous ladies sat in huddles shelling peas, piles and piles of every exotic fruit and vegetable that you could care to imagine, and people shouting off about their toilet paper, fresh honey, parsley, potatoes, sugar cane juice and everything in between.

Of course, bartering is expected, and any attempts I make at it instantly mark me out as a gringo, but it's fun to try. The bottom picture of this post is how much fruit and veg I managed to buy with 5 dollars, so my bargaining skills must be improving (in my first week here I was duped into buying a small bunch of grapes for 2 dollars).

Christmas looms large

Some of you may have noticed a slight undertone of homesickness creeping into my recent posts, which doubtless has a lot to do with the unstoppable advancing of Christmas into our lives. Don't get me wrong, I love Christmas. It's just that practically all of the elements of Christmas that I love are missing from my life right now. My loved ones are far away, the usual build up and pre-Christmas excitement (let's face it, the best part of the whole shenanigans) is lacking from this part of the world, and most importantly it's far too warm to be Christmas at all.

So what is Christmas like in Ecuador, where they may not have the snow but they sure enough have the catholic following to make it into a big occasion? Well one thing is for sure - there's not the frenzy surrounding it that there is in England. Here in Loja the local independence celebrations saw a much bigger buildup, which is understandable of course, and although charming trees and decorations have been put up in the square, market, and in the houses, there's certainly not the same mad this-year's-has-to-be-the-best-ever-or-else feeling which has poisoned English Christmas preparations over the years.

I suppose a lot of it has to do with the fact that Christmas in the UK is the one shining beacon on the horizon during the descent into another demoralising winter, and families feel under pressure to produce a day which lives up to the endless weeks of excitement and presents which keep their little dears happy through the cold winter months. For this reason alone Christmas takes on a huge importance for a lot of people. Here, Christmas falls during the most agreeable weather of the year, and therefore it won't have too big a knock-on effect on people's lives whether it's a good Christmas or not.

A strange thing to observe is that the Christmas paraphernalia which does exist is very much orientated towards the image of Christmas depicted in 'It's A Wonderful Life' or that bloody coca-cola advert. If you were to seek out a Christmas card (I struggled with this - apparently South Americans don't send cards and it's a 'very European' thing) or some Christmas wrapping, you would almost certainly find it with either rosy-cheeked carol singers or Santa Claus dancing in the snow with his reindeers. Even the Christmas tree, with its roots in Nordic and German celebrations, seems rather out of place here.

In my classes I have been spending some time proudly comparing Christmas traditions in England with those in Ecuador. This has illustrated to me again the slightly depressing similarities between the two. In Ecuador the Christmas adverts start way too early, the tree is up in November, they sing carols (same ones as us but with a Spanish translation) in the run-up, and they even eat a turkey dinner, albeit on the 24th. They'd probably have Santa coming down the chimney if most of the houses didn't have tin roofs and it wasn't far too warm for a fireplace.

So to a certain extent Christmas is cancelled this year in my life. No need to feel sorry for me though, as myself, some of the teachers and our new Colombian compadres will be making the most of the time off and travelling around Ecuador for 10 days. It is definitely disappointing that I am in effect running away from Christmas, but there are definitely worse places that I could be running to. On the plus side I haven't heard Mariah Carey, Wham, Band Aid or any of that crap yet, and most likely won't. So there's a positive thought to end on if ever there was one.

(This post was originally written on 9th December but due to technical issues I'm posting it again with pictures)

Saturday, 21 December 2013

Cultural differences handily summarised

I decided it was a good idea to sum up a handy list of cultural peculiarities thus far collected in my time here.

Social: in Ecuador it is customary to shake hands with every single person of the already-present group when arriving at a social event. Then, when beer or other alcohol is served, it is rude to take a beer just for oneself, and rather several beers are bought by the group, and small amounts are poured into each glass. If you then want more, you are too offer it to every other person on the table before pouring your own. ¡salud! is rarely bothered with. I was also told that answering the question 'do you want to go to a bar tonight?' with the question 'sure, what time?' is so European.

Commercial: bartering is commonplace in all but the biggest chain stores, and it is actually considered rather rude if you don't barter on price. I was recently told by a friend that one of the best ways to win the respect of an Ecuadorian is to barter with him. They also seem to be a lot more accepting of dodgy travelling salesmen, and willing to fork out for whatever crap the guy who's ambushed us on the bus with a 30 minute speech is peddling. That could just be down to the Ecuadorian mild-mannered nature of course.

Manners: little emphasis is placed here on the manners that we hold so dear in blighty. Please and thank you are used sparingly, and people would rather barge past you than utter a simple 'perdón'. Despite this, they are a very warm (if slightly reserved) race of people, and any friendship will be greatly repaid.

Hygiene: one aspect of life here that I've found unusual is the fact that used toilet paper is not flushed down the toilet, but rather placed in a designated bin at arm's length of the toilet. Inevitably, this usually reaches the point of overflowing before anyone bites the bullet and empties the container of shitty paper out. As such, the relative benefits of this system are surely outweighed by the mankiness of the overflowing shit-bin. A teacher from England told me once that the thing he loves about Ecuador is the freedom to urinate where he wants without fear of being judged, and yes, I have seen plenty of evidence, male and female, to back that statement up.

Relationships: not got any personal experience in this field but from what I've seen latino men live up to their less-than-positive reputation. It is widely accepted that men are scumbags who can't keep it in their trousers, and cheating between couples (married or unmarried) seems to be fairly accepted. Someone one told me that her father's unfaithfulness is actually a running joke in the family, and many nights after tea he'll pop out to 'meet a business partner' with a knowing wink. Everyone knows what this means and it's accepted as long as he crawls back into the marital bed at the end and doesn't take drugs. As Ecuador is quite a conservative catholic country, teenage marriage is quite common and some people seemed surprised that I was unmarried at 24.

Environment: fair play to the president, Rafael Correa, in this department, as he seems to be someone who actually cares about the environment. There exists something in Ecuadorian law called the 'law of nature' where the beautiful nature of the country is protected by law. The Galapagos are a bit too touristy but at least travel to the islands is highly restricted by the park entry fee. He tried an unusual policy of promising to leave the vast reserves of oil under the Ecuadorian jungle alone if the international community would come up with the $3.5bn that they could earn by exploiting 0.1% of the national park. In the end they only received a few million so the scheme was a abandoned, but a bit more cooperativeness from more well-off countries or individuals and it could have worked. Here in Loja I don't really see a lot of love for the environment, despite the beautiful natural location. I've yet to even encounter anywhere that you can recycle anything here.

I'll continue to add to this post as and when I think of more stuff. Contributions and suggestions gratefully received.

Wednesday, 4 December 2013

What I dream of when feeling homesick

In no particular order:

Fish and chips meals out to the pub with my parents

Chaotic Sunday afternoon cafe visits with my wider family to shelter from the pouring rain

Taking a flight to Dortmund to see my girlfriend and enjoy the pure  Gemütlichkeit of her apartment

Jumping on a train and being with my uni mates in Sheffield in an hour and a half

A proper cup of tea

The British sense of humour

Christmas by the fire, huddled up from the freezing cold with my closest family and playing some terrible board game

The look on my nieces and nephews faces when I knock on the door of their house in Bristol

Games of tennis with my brother and camomile tea and curry nights with my sister

Fifa tournaments and afternoon kickabouts with my old school friends

Regional accents

The ability to understand everyone with minimal difficulty (although this admittedly has its drawbacks)

The rain

My guitar

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